Back in the early 70's I enjoyed a 7 day Expidition Climbing School with him.
Climbing the North side of Mt. Hood.
Tom died at a young age (21) from leukemia the Doctors thought they had it in remission, but it returned about year or so later.
He was not only one of my climbing students then instructor he was also a friend and climbing partner. Our two most important climbs as partners was the North side of Mt. Rainier and Mt. St. Helens the year before it blew. That evening we were playing around on the ice in the area where it blew for an hour or so then decided to climb up to the top. After we arrived at the top it was so nice there that we decided to camp there and return in the morning. After I dropped him of at home that was the last time I saw him alive. He passed away the following April. He was cremated and each one of his students received a small packet of his ashes to scatter in the mountains.
Also that same summer Tom and I and Saundra my wife then climbed Glacier Peak. It was one of those meanderings climb. We hiked up to the normal base camp area then getting up early the next morning with no route plan. We just meander working our way to the summit. We arrived at the summit very late causing us to arrive back at camp in the dark. The sunset was beautiful though making it worth while though.
His dad had a Model "T" Ford with a rumble seat. One time he and a couple of the other students came up to the house in it in the dead of winter. So I bundled up and we went to the Tripple "X" in Issaquah for Root Beer Floates and of course freezing half to death and the Root Beer Floats didn't help matters for warmth. So the two of us that road in the back were not only cold on the outside but inside also.
Maybe he knew!
Jack was Jack he had what he called a dragging foot. He had to pick his right leg higher so he wouldn't drag his foot. He was a student with the Washington Alpine Club and I was one of the climb leaders. Some how he did it, it was his dream to climb Mt. Baker. On the way out I was the tail end and Jack was about 3 or 4 climbers ahead of me when suddenly he dropped to the ground. Luckly there was a nurse behind him.
We took turns doing CPR but to no avail. We found out the next day that he had a massive heart attack.
Maybe he too also knew!
Tommy Carter, MSG David Shephard, CW2 Guy (Bear) Baraterri, MAJ
Those who have climbed it will still have long ago memories.
The Finger now a nub felt the hands and feet of countless climbers but still climbers of the past pass by what is left remembering The Finger it once was, Amen
They got caught in a white-out high winds and the climbing party was separated. Six of them came down the Colman Glacier side and the rest of them went down the South side of the Black Buttes and showed up late that same day.
The reason I write this is not only to dedicate this to Steven, but to also dedicate this to my climbing class who did the recovery and rescue of some of the student stragglers who were coming down. Also to Saundra Tieman who set up the treating processes of frostbite and hypothermic climbers while I was monitoring. The six that were recovered were stuffed into sleeping bags of course the naked thing and given warm drink and frostbite protected.
What I remember of him was that he was in his late teens died just a few 100 feet from the Summit of Mt. Baker. He was a student of the Climbing Club from the University of Washington. This was the class Graduation climb that turned into rescue. They didn't take the normal route it was the route to the left I think it is called the Colman Head Wall. His body was found in a snow cave just below the Crest.
His death was uncalled for. Steve was dressed like he was going on a summer stroll. All of the other climbers were dress appropriately. He was wearing levies, wool shirt and a light jacket, but in his pack was everything he needed and would have kept him alive. Now why did the climb leaders let him wear them because upon inspection of his pack he had every needed to survive.
Shortly after the University closed down the club.